Lucas Foppa e Ricardo Ambrosi contavam 21 anos quando produziram a primeira garrafa de Cabernet Sauvignon, no porão de casa. Os então estudantes da Faculdade de Viticultura e Enologia de Bento Gonçalves davam o primeiro o para a criação da Tenuta Foppa & Ambrosi, uma das mais jovens vinícolas da Serra Gaúcha. ados cinco anos, os jovens sócios pularam de 300 garrafas, produzidas na microssafra do porão, para as 45 mil envasadas no ano ado. O incremento deve ser ampliado entre 2022 e 2023, quando a empresa espera fechar com 60 mil garrafas elaboradas.
Sem investidores e com poucos recursos, a vinícola cresceu sob o signo da juventude e da expertise dos proprietários, que importaram do Napa Valley, região vitivinícola da Califórnia (EUA), um modelo de elaboração pouco comum na Serra Gaúcha: parte do serviço é terceirizada.
Como não possui vinhedos, a Tenuta Foppa & Ambrosi compra uvas selecionadas de produtores da região e encaminha a fruta para processamento em empresas que fazem vinho para clientes que não têm estrutura vinícola. Entre outras vantagens, a opção dispensa o investimento em maquinário e possibilita que fatores sazonais não prejudiquem o produto final.
– Buscamos a uva perfeita. Se em uma área específica, por exemplo, a safra não for o que esperamos, temos a liberdade de ir à outra região buscar matéria-prima melhor. Assim, temos um Terroir flutuante – explica Lucas Foppa.
Uma das principais fases da elaboração dos vinhos e espumantes da vinícola ocorre na sede, em Garibaldi, no Vale dos Vinhedos. Lá, os enólogos aplicam uma técnica de produção moderna, que geralmente não é informada ao consumidor: a maturação de vinhos com carvalho alternativo. Em vez de amadurecer o vinho em barricas da madeira, pedaços de carvalho são colocados dentro de tanques de inox, aportando os benefícios desejados na bebida. A vinícola também utiliza e acredita no método clássico de maturação em barricas para vinhos especiais, que comportam os toques de carvalho, sem deixar de lado o protagonismo da fruta no perfil do Terroir.
Graças à técnica de parcerias para terceirização, a Tenuta Foppa & Ambrosi é a primeira empresa brasileira a elaborar vinhos no Napa Valley.
— Não se trata de comprar um vinho no exterior. Você compra as uvas e pode estabelecer seu protocolo de vinificação, qual o processo, a temperatura de fermentação etc. Isso permite elaborar um vinho único, exclusivo, sem o investimento em maquinário e mão de obra – comenta Lucas.
O futuro aponta possibilidades de crescimento e inovação para a empresa e os jovens empreendedores. De acordo com os sócios, eles acreditam ser as pessoas mais jovens a fundarem uma vinícola no mundo e o tempo conta a favor de suas ambições.
— Geralmente as pessoas começam a produzir vinhos com 40, 50 anos e deixam um legado para a próxima geração concluir. Nós somos a geração zero de um projeto de vinhos e teremos tempo de desenvolvê-lo. Isso é um privilégio – comemora Lucas.
Para quem ficou curioso: “Tenuta” significa “propriedade” em italiano. Saiba mais sobre essa empresa na entrevista com o sócio Lucas Foppa:
A história da Tenuta Foppa & Ambrosi se desenvolveu em ritmo acelerado. Como foi o começo?
Lucas Foppa - Em 2017, quando Ricardo, meu sócio, e eu tínhamos 21 anos, começamos a elaborar vinhos no porão da casa da família Ambrosi. Vendemos 300 garrafas via WhatsApp. Mas a vinícola começou mais tarde. Naquele mesmo ano, participamos de um intercâmbio agrícola no Napa Valley, para trabalhar na Rombauer Vineyards. Aprendemos bastante coisa, mas o principal foi o modelo de negócios adotado por muitas empresas de lá: eles começam comprando a uva de produtores independentes e levam para alguma vinícola que venda serviços de vinificação. Você pode estabelecer seu protocolo de elaboração, determinando como o vinho será feito. Vimos como uma possibilidade de elaborar vinhos sem precisar investir em máquinas, tanques, mão de obra.
E vocês decidiram colocar esse método em prática no Brasil?
Lucas - Sim. Foi uma forma de tirar a produção do porão. Voltamos ao Brasil em 2018 e propusemos uma parceria com duas vinícolas, que nos ajudaram muito, e às quais somos muito gratos: a Vinícola Arbugeri e a Vinícola Cave Antiga. Conseguimos lançar os primeiros vinhos em 2019, em pouca quantidade. Nosso primeiro cliente foi um empresário de Manaus, Kellvin Sobrinho, que gostou muito do nosso produto. Depois, conseguimos clientes aqui no Rio Grande do Sul, Paraná, Santa Catarina e em São Paulo. Com a pandemia, o consumo aumentou e nossas vendas cresceram. Em 2020, migramos o processamento de uvas totalmente para a Vinícola Plátanos, que é focada em terceirização – onde o meu sócio, Ricardo Ambrosi, é enólogo. Aumentamos a autonomia no processo ainda mais, crescemos a produção e vendemos 30 mil garrafas. No fim daquele ano, nos mudamos para as instalações da nossa própria vinícola. No ano ado elaboramos 45 mil garrafas.
Além do método de produção que vocês adotaram, a qualidade é outro grande diferencial?
Lucas - Dizer que a qualidade é o diferencial é muito relativo. Quem vai dizer se gosta ou não é o cliente. Mas temos um protocolo de produção e desenvolvemos um vinho pautado pela enologia, com nível técnico. Por exemplo: usamos carvalho alternativo. Lascas, cubos e tábuas são colocados dentro do tanque de inox e aportam as qualidades da madeira sem precisar usar as barricas feitas com esse material. Essa é uma diferença importante para o estilo do nosso vinho. As pessoas que degustam vão se aventurar nessa técnica. A forma com que a gente faz vinho traz formas novas de ler o Terroir do Rio Grande do Sul.
Que tipos de vinhos são produzidos pela Tenuta Foppa & Ambrosi">
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